Sunday, June 2, 2013

I care about Iceland. I love its  raw beauty, its wilderness and quietness, and all the rest of the clichés you've heard about this country, which incidentally happen to be true.
In fact, I care so much about it that I went to guiding school, so that I could learn to share the country's beauty, and learn to educate others about how to enjoy nature without disturbing it.
 That way I hope to participate in maintaining its beauty.

When I first came here, I was struck by the fact that one could often hear silence, and that one's horizon was not spoiled by endless rows of advertisement signs on the side of the road. Tourist sights were unspoiled, and mostly very clean. (obviously, the fact that there was still a moderate number of visitors to these places at the time made them easier to manage and keep clean)

Today, the number of visitors is increasing amazingly fast. It's probably great for local economy, but it also has a negative impact on the land, as people have started to realize of late. The land's sustainability has recently been the subject of discussions in the Icelandic media and on Facebook.

I used to love going places where there was, unlike in other countries, no fence between you and a waterfall, no ropes emprisoning nature, just a couple of small signs saying "beware, hot springs", but no stupid sign stating the obvious ("if you fall down this 100m cliff, you might die, so be careful" "if you put your hands in this 100°c water, you might burn yourself" etc etc)
There were none of these, because people were considered responsible and intelligent enough to judge for themselves (or that's the reason I like to imagine, anyway)

Today, I can only deplore that Iceland seems to be becoming like other countries. Has to subject to international rules on imbecility, and signs are popping up here and there "slippery when wet" (no shit???), "burns when hot" and that kind of stuff.
Not to mention signs advertising tourist attractions, companies and etc, which are more and more present on the side of the road... Iceland is so fashionable at the moment, and there seems to be such a shortage in accomodation anyway, that one would have thought them quite unnecessary. 

Also, wherever I go today, whether on the Golden Circle, the south coast, Skógafoss, Seljalandsfoss, Þingvellir, all the places that are in bold on the international tourists' map, I am struck by how dirty they have become, in just the last couple of years. It is very saddening.
I am not even talking about the fact that paths and vegetation are being trodden down; that is an unfortunate consequence of welcoming more visitors, and some sacrifices have to be made. Not so long ago, it really pained me to see that the walking path leading into Dimmuborgir had been paved (as in tarmacked), I assume to avoid more erosion. Tarmac looks extremely out of place there. But between an ugly tarmacked walking path allowing people to enjoy the site whilst staying off the vegetation, or having people walk all over the place so that nothing can grow, a choice had to be made between the lesser of two evils.

The things that bug me are rather the « minor » things, the things that don't have to be, those things we CAN change by acting differently. Small bits of papers. Paper handkerchiefs. Plastic bottles. Chewing gum. Cigarette stubs. COINS in the rivers, for heaven's sake!
It may seem very romantic to throw coins into a hot pool or a beautiful clear river. Only remember that if YOU are the first person who throws a coin («It doesn't matter, it's only one coin »), this one coin will be followed by others, and many more. And there goes the beautiful unspoiled river/pool/fissure. (Cf, the fissure in Þingvellir or the pool in Geysir for instance)

Chewing gum. Is small, but will not disintegrate for ages. It is already unpleasant to see chewing gum on pavements in town, but it really has NOTHING to do outside in the nature.
As for cigarette stubs on the previously unspoiled ground, it's just revolting... I don't even know what to say, but I think you get my point. (by the way, the lifespan of chewing gum and cigarette stubs is up to five years. Plastic bags and packages, anything from 100 to 450 years)

The other day I was at Seljalandsfoss. There were plastic bags on the ground, the paths were muddy and crappy, loads of stubs and stuff everywhere! I'd never seen it so dirty, a real heartbreaker!!
Last year, already, I had become aware of the problem, when walking up Skógafoss in early March, just at the beginning of the tourist season. I remember, one morning I had counted (and picked up!) 33 different pieces of garbage on my way up. Considering it was early March, I'll let you guess what it looked like later on in the season. I'm really worried of what it'll be like this year.
Tourist sights in Iceland are usually equipped with garbage disposal areas or dustbins. They're easy to see, and not difficult to use.
It's basic respect, when you go somewhere, leave the place as clean as you find it.
If unfortunately you didn't find it as clean as you would have liked, it IS in your power to leave it cleaner than you found it.

People mostly come here to get a taste of unspoiled nature, and should make sure their followers get their share too. It is EVERYONE'S responsibility to keep the place clean. Not only people who are paid to come and repair the damage once it's been done. And it's not only up to guides to educate people; it IS also people's own responsibility to respect the land.
Enjoying nature starts with respect, for nature itself and for other people.

Visitors to Iceland want untouched beauty when they come. We still want it when they leave. With everyone participating, we all benefit from it.

But anyway. I know this ranting may seem ironical or exaggerated, considering the tourist industry feeds me. But that's the thing.
I don't want Iceland losing its independance and becoming a tourist trap full of souvenirs made in China and kiss-me-quick hats.
It deserves more.